British asparagus season runs from late April through to mid-June and produces some of the finest spears available anywhere in the world. The chalky soils of the Vale of Evesham, the beds of Lincolnshire and the market gardens of Kent and Sussex yield asparagus with a sweetness and snap that imported product almost never matches. When the season arrives, it is worth cooking it every way you know — and this, with hollandaise and crispy pancetta, is the version worth returning to most often.
Hollandaise has a reputation for being difficult. It is, in reality, merely unforgiving: too hot and the eggs scramble, too cool and the butter won't emulsify. Master the temperature and the technique and you have one of the most useful sauces in the classical repertoire, one that elevates asparagus from a side dish to the centrepiece of a proper spring starter.
Serves 4 as a starter
Ingredients
For the hollandaise
- 3 large egg yolks
- 200g unsalted butter, clarified (or good-quality ghee)
- 1 tbsp white wine vinegar
- 1 tbsp cold water
- Juice of half a lemon
- Salt and white pepper
For the asparagus
- 24 British asparagus spears, woody ends snapped off
- 1 tbsp olive oil
- Flaked sea salt
To serve
- 8 thin slices pancetta or streaky bacon
- 4 soft-boiled eggs (6 minutes from boiling)
- A few chives, finely cut
Method
1. The hollandaise
Place the egg yolks, white wine vinegar and cold water in a heatproof bowl. Set over a pan of barely simmering water — the bowl must not touch the water. Whisk continuously until the mixture thickens, turns pale and leaves a ribbon when you lift the whisk. This takes 4–6 minutes. Do not rush it and do not let the bowl get too hot.
Remove from the heat. Begin adding the clarified butter drop by drop, whisking all the time. Once the emulsion is established and the sauce is thickening, you can pour the butter in a thin, steady stream. Season with lemon juice, salt and white pepper. Keep warm over the bain-marie with the heat off, whisking occasionally. If it thickens too much, loosen with a few drops of warm water.
2. The pancetta
Lay the pancetta slices flat on a baking tray lined with parchment. Roast at 190°C for 10–12 minutes until deep golden and completely crisp. Transfer to kitchen paper to drain. The pancetta will continue to crisp as it cools.
3. The asparagus
Bring a large pan of well-salted water to a rolling boil. Add the asparagus and cook for 2–4 minutes depending on thickness — the spears should be just tender with a little resistance at the base. Drain well and toss briefly with olive oil and a pinch of flaked salt.
Alternatively, griddle the asparagus: brush with oil, cook on a hot ridged pan for 3–4 minutes turning once, until charred in places and tender.
4. The eggs
Bring a pan of water to the boil. Lower the eggs in carefully and cook for exactly 6 minutes. Transfer to iced water for 1 minute, then peel. The yolk should be just set at the edges and still molten at the centre.
To Plate
Lay 6 asparagus spears across each warm plate. Spoon hollandaise generously alongside or directly over the spears. Halve the soft-boiled egg and place beside the asparagus, season the cut face with a little flaked salt. Arrange two pancetta shards alongside and finish with chives.
Kitchen Notes
Clarified butter removes the milk solids that cause hollandaise to split and go grainy at higher temperatures. To clarify: melt butter gently, skim the foam, pour off the golden liquid and discard the white residue at the bottom.
Temperature control is everything. If the hollandaise starts to look granular or oily, remove from the heat immediately and whisk in a teaspoon of cold water to bring it back.
British asparagus availability: season typically begins late April but early-season Worcestershire and Herefordshire spears may arrive a week or two earlier. The peak week is usually mid-May. Buy it as fresh as possible — ideally on the day of picking from a farm shop or market.