Celeriac remoulade is one of those preparations that the French perfected long ago and the rest of us have been borrowing gratefully ever since. On its own it's a fine thing — creamy, mustardy, with that particular celery-adjacent flavour that celeriac alone provides. But when you lay it against smoked trout, fry the capers until they open like tiny flowers, and scatter everything with fresh dill, it becomes a proper starter — the kind that makes guests think you've been more organised than you actually have been.
This works equally well as a restaurant-style plated starter or served family-style on a large plate in the centre of the table.
Serves: 4 as a starter Prep: 20 minutes + 30 minutes resting Cook: 5 minutes (for the capers)
Ingredients
For the remoulade:
- 1 medium celeriac (approximately 700g whole), peeled
- 1½ tsp fine salt
- 3 tbsp good mayonnaise (Hellmann's or homemade)
- 2 tbsp crème fraîche
- 2 tsp Dijon mustard
- 1 tsp wholegrain mustard
- 1 tbsp white wine vinegar
- Juice of ½ lemon
- White pepper
For the crispy capers:
- 4 tbsp small capers, drained and thoroughly dried on kitchen paper
- 3 tbsp neutral oil (vegetable or sunflower)
To assemble:
- 250g hot-smoked trout fillets, skin removed and flaked into generous pieces
- Small bunch of fresh dill, fronds picked
- 1 lemon, cut into wedges
- Toasted rye bread or crispbreads, to serve
Method
1. Julienne the celeriac Quarter the peeled celeriac and cut each quarter into very thin slices, then cut those slices into matchstick-thin julienne strips. A mandoline makes this considerably faster, but a sharp knife and patience work equally well. The finer the strips, the more delicate the final texture.
2. Salt and rest Place the celeriac julienne in a colander, sprinkle with the fine salt and toss well. Leave for 30 minutes — the salt will draw out excess moisture. Rinse thoroughly under cold running water, then squeeze the celeriac firmly in a clean tea towel to remove as much liquid as possible. The celeriac should feel noticeably drier and slightly more pliable.
3. Make the dressing Whisk together the mayonnaise, crème fraîche, Dijon, wholegrain mustard, white wine vinegar and lemon juice. Season generously with white pepper and a little salt — the salting and rinsing of the celeriac means you will need less than you might expect. Taste and adjust acidity or mustard to your preference.
4. Dress the remoulade Combine the dried celeriac with the dressing, folding to coat thoroughly. The remoulade can be made up to 6 hours ahead and refrigerated — the flavour improves with a little time.
5. Fry the capers Heat the neutral oil in a small frying pan over a medium-high heat until shimmering. Ensure the capers are as dry as possible — any residual moisture will cause the oil to spit. Add the capers to the pan in a single layer and fry for 2–3 minutes, turning once, until they have opened up, turned golden and become crisp. Remove with a slotted spoon and drain on kitchen paper. They will crisp further as they cool.
6. Plate and serve Divide the celeriac remoulade between four plates, forming a generous mound on each. Lay the flaked smoked trout across and around the remoulade. Scatter with crispy capers and dill fronds. Finish with a small twist of black pepper and serve immediately with lemon wedges and toasted rye bread or crispbreads alongside.
Notes
- Hot-smoked trout has a flakier, richer texture than cold-smoked and works better here. Cold-smoked salmon is an acceptable substitute but results in a lighter flavour overall.
- The capers must be completely dry before frying or they will not crisp. Pat them between two sheets of kitchen paper and leave for at least 15 minutes.
- For a more substantial dish, add a soft-boiled egg (6½ minutes) halved alongside each portion.
- Leftover remoulade keeps well for 24 hours and is excellent in sandwiches with cold chicken or ham.